Binding with Bias - METHOD ONE - machine and hand

There are a few different methods of apply binding to finish the raw edges of garments. No one method is 'right'. Like most things in garment sewing there is more than one way to do this. You may even have a different one to the ones I'm about to explain. People seem to get so caught up with the 'right' way of doing things! The right way is the one you like best and works for you!

The main function in applying binding is to neaten and finish an edge so that it does not fray with wear. The reason we use bias cut strips is because bias stretches and will sit better on curves as it will stretch to fit them.

All my samples here are done on the straight but are also applicable for working around curves. Although for apply bias to curves I recommend you pin as this helps to stop it puckering and distorting. As the bias is sewn the foot and feed dogs can cause the bias to feed unevenly resulting in puckers. Using a walking foot to apply bias will also help to prevent it stretching out and puckering.

METHOD ONE - machine and hand stitched.

Apply the bias to the right side of the fabric.

Open up the commercial bias and line up one edge to the raw edge to be bound.
Sew along the crease with a straight stitch
I find I can sew straighter when I can see where I am going so I use an open toed straight stitching foot to apply my bias. On my Bernina this is my 1/4inch foot. (no37)

A Tip From Sara said...Tracy, I've been reading through these quickly, so might be commenting on the wrong method, but I was going to say that I use foot #10 and line the blade up with the edge of the bias and then I move the needle over however far I want the stitching to be. Works really well with bias. This is how the lady at the Bernina shop told me.



Fold the bias over the edge and hand stitch it to the machine stitching you applied it with.
I use a whip stitch when I do this and usually space it to every third machine stitch.

Pros..
It's very neat from the front as no stitching is visible.
I tend to get this right the first time. When I apply with the machine I sometimes miss catching the bias which means I have to unpick sections and rework.

Cons
Some don't like the look of the hand stitching at the back.
It can get caught and pulled.
It takes longer to hand stitch the binding than machine it.

Binding with Bias - Method two - machine -back first

Apply the bias to the back (wrong side)of your fabric.
Open up the bias and line the edge with your raw edge to be bound
Sew along the fold of the bias.

Fold the bias to the front.
Now straight stitch just along the edge of the folded bias.

(you can click on the photo to get a better look)

An option for this method is to use a decorative or zigzag stitch to catch the bias down.

Pro's
Quick
You can see as you sew that you are catching the binding down. Unlike with the method 3.

Con's
If you aren't good at sewing a straight line it looks messy.
The stitching is clearly visible on the binding.

Binding with Bias - Method 3 - machine -front first

Applying bias to the front (right side) of the fabric first.
Open up bias, line up the edge with the edge of the fabric.
Most commercial bias binding has one side folded slightly bigger than the other to make this method a little easier.
The edge you line up to the edge you want to bind should be the one that is a little smaller.
Sew along the crease of the bias with a straight stitch.

Now fold the bias to the back.
The loose edge of the bias is underneath.
You need to roll the bias to the back so that there is more bias at the back than the front.
This time we sew the bias down from the front.
Along the ditch created by the previous stitching.
Use a thread that matches your fabric not your binding.

Pros
This method is neater than Method 2
It can be quick.
It can be very neat as the stitching becomes hidden in the ditch.

Cons
Fiddly
I often miss catching the binding at the back. Resulting in either unpicking and re sewing or sewing the missed section by hand.

Binding with Bias - Method 4 - Flipping the lot

With this method the bias is flipped to the front, instead of folding over the edge. This exposes more of the bias resulting in a wider edge.
A seam allowance need to be added to the edge to be bound with this method.

Start by lining up the edge of the binding with the back (wrong side) edge of the edge to be bound.
Sew the bias on along the crease (as in the other methods)

Fold the entire bias to the front.
Press the bias and edge for a neater finish.
Top stitch the bias with a straight stitch along the edge.

This method of binding can be done by sewing from the right side or wrong side first.
This method is often used to finish hems.
If sewing from the front first you can use tiny hand stitches to apply the bias from the back as you would for hand stitching a hem.

Binding with Bias - Method 5 - Bias strips - double fold

All bias means is that the strip is cut on the diagonal grain of the fabric. The diagonal grain of the fabric is called the bias. You can make your own bias for binding edges and you don't need to buy one of those fancy binder makers either.

These strips were cut on the bias using a ruler and rotary cutter.

This is the double fold method.



Fold the bias strip in half and press well
A strip greater than 1.5 inches is needed as folding the strip in half narrows it.


On the wrong side of the fabric place the raw edges of the bias to the edge to be bound.
Sew with a quarter inch seam along the raw edge with a straight stitch.
Fold the binding over the edge and topstitch it down with a straight stitch.


You can also apply a double fold to the front of the fabric first and fold it to the back and hand stitch it down or machine stitch it in the ditch from the front.

Pros
A thicker edge which wears better. This type of binding is mostly done on quilts and blankets.

Binding with Bias - Method 6 - Bias strips -neatened

Binding with bias strips is easier than commercial bias. In my opinion. I can cut the bias strips in my preferred fabric and thickness.

This method involves neatening one edge of a bias strip.
I use 1.5inch strips for this method.

You can choose to neaten the strip in a number of ways.
By folding it over and straight stitching or zigzagging it.
Or even by just giving it a really good press.
It is important not to stretch it or distort it too much.

Place the un-neatend edge to the raw edge right side up.
Sew a straight stitch with a quarter inch seam.
Fold the strip to the back and stitch in the ditch from the front.

Pros...
You can use any fabric.
It's neat
You are less likely to miss catching the binding as the part flipped to the back is bigger.

Cons
Takes more time to prepare.